Say what you want about the Soviet Union, but it did one thing right: it completely united our dinner tables.

Quick answer

What wine goes with Chicken Tabaka? A Georgian Saperavi. I pour the Shimon & Company Saperavi (not mevushal, meaning it was never flash-pasteurized) with mine. Its firm tannins and bright, zesty acidity cut right through the rich, garlicky fat of the crispy chicken.

Growing up, my parents would treat themselves to date nights at a legendary local spot called Ugolok. They went there for one specific masterpiece: Tsyplenok Tabaka (Chicken Tabaka).

Originally from the Republic of Georgia, this dish became an absolute sensation. Traditionally, it's a whole baby chicken, butterflied, heavily spiced and literally pressed down with a heavy brick in a screaming hot pan. It cooks under that brick until it becomes impossibly crispy.

I wanted that exact same childhood nostalgia, but I made it way easier for a weeknight. Instead of a whole bird, I use juicy, boneless chicken steaks (pargiot). You get maximum surface area, insanely crispy skin and all that rich, garlicky flavor in half the time.

A knife and fork cutting into a crispy chicken thigh topped with tomato, garlic, dill and chives on a white scalloped plate, showing the juicy meat inside
Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside.

But you cannot eat a Georgian masterpiece without pouring a Georgian wine. I'm pairing this with a gorgeous Saperavi.

This dark, bold red hits you with black plum, wild berries and crushed black pepper. Its bright acidity (that mouth-watering freshness) and firm tannins (that drying grip on your gums) act like a secret weapon. They cut right through the rich, garlicky chicken fat and reset your palate for the next bite.

What Wine Goes with Chicken Tabaka?

The pairing

Crispy Chicken Tabaka&Shimon & Company Saperavi

Firm tannins and bright, zesty acidity cut right through the rich, garlicky fat of the crispy chicken.

Anne holding a bottle of Saperavi, Premium Wine red Dry, with a clay amphora drawing on the label and a Not Mevushal seal on the neck

Tasting notes

Saperavi · Georgia · 14.5% ABV

  • Mevushal No
Nose
Bursts of dark wild berry and ripe black plum, then crushed black pepper and a rustic hint of damp earth
Palate
Deep, bold dark fruit on a savory, spicy backbone. Full-bodied, yet fresh, with firm, grippy tannins and a bright, zesty acidity
Pairs with
Rich, garlicky, crispy chicken: that acidity is practically designed by nature to cut right through the fat
The grape
Saperavi is Georgia's most important red grape. Its name means "dye" in Georgian, because even its flesh is red, not just the skin. It first grew in Kakheti, in eastern Georgia
  • Sweetnesshow sugary it tastesDry
  • Aciditymouth-watering freshnessFresh
  • Tanninthat drying grip on your gumsFirm
  • Bodyweight on the tongueFull

Verdict A gorgeous Saperavi, and a secret weapon with rich, garlicky chicken

Watch the reel

Overhead view of crispy chicken under fresh tomato sauce, chopped dill and chives in a terracotta dish, beside an empty white plate

Watch the full reel on Instagram @oyveyrose.

In the kitchen

Close-up of a crispy chicken thigh on a white plate, covered in tomato, minced garlic, chopped dill and chives

How to Make Chicken Tabaka (The Crispy Weeknight Hack)

  • Meat

Ingredients

  • Boneless, skin-on chicken steaks (pargiot); dark meat works best
  • Salt
  • Black pepper
  • A little oil, for the rub and the skillet
  • Lots of fresh garlic, minced
  • Crushed tomato
  • Fresh herbs, chopped: cilantro, or dill and chives

Method

  1. Season. Rub the chicken generously with salt, black pepper and a little oil.
  2. Heat the skillet. Get a little oil hot in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat.
  3. Press. Lay the chicken in skin-side down. Here's the secret: cover it with a piece of aluminum foil, then set a heavy pot or press (or a foil-wrapped brick) right on top to press it flat.
  4. Sear. Cook until the skin is deep golden and perfectly crispy.
  5. Flip. Turn the chicken and finish cooking the other side.
  6. Finish. In the last minute, toss in a massive amount of minced fresh garlic, the crushed tomato and the herbs. Let the chicken soak up those aromatics.
  7. Serve. I layer the chicken in a clay dish and spoon the tomato and garlic over the top.
Boneless skin-on chicken thighs on a wooden board, sprinkled with salt and cracked black pepper
A cast-iron grill press set on aluminum foil over chicken searing in a cast-iron skillet
A slotted spatula flipping a golden, crispy chicken thigh in a cast-iron skillet
Chunky fresh tomato sauce spooned from a wooden bowl over chicken in a terracotta dish
Season, press, flip, then into the clay dish.

More from my childhood table: kosher Chicken Kyiv with Covenant Lavan Chardonnay, and my Kosher Lagman, a bowl of Tashkent nostalgia with Hajdu Grenache.

Enjoy a piece of my parents' favorite date night. Pour a glass... and L'Chaim!